Hermitlux ‎TB1370G-AC-I1 30 inch Built-in/Insert Range Hood
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Before You Cut: A 4-Point Planning Guide for Built-In Range Hoods

The “insert” or “built-in” range hood is a cornerstone of modern kitchen design. Unlike its bulky under-cabinet cousins, an insert disappears into your custom cabinetry, offering powerful ventilation with a seamless, high-end look. Users often praise this style for the “high end feel” it creates, allowing for custom wood or drywall enclosures.

But this aesthetic payoff comes with a significant trade-off: installation complexity.

A user review stating it “took almost a whole Saturday to install” and required cutting the cabinet bottom isn’t a complaint; it’s a realistic preview of the job. An insert hood is not a simple “plug-and-play” appliance. It is a semi-custom woodworking project.

Before you even buy the unit, you must confirm it will work with your space. Here is a 4-point planning guide to complete before you click “add to cart.” We’ll use the Hermitlux TB1370G-AC-I1 as a tangible example.


1. The Cutout: Measure Your Cabinet’s Interior

This is the point of no return. You cannot guess.

  • Width: The Hermitlux TB1370G-AC-I1 is listed as a “30 inch” hood, but its actual body width is 27.76 inches. This is designed to fit inside a standard 30-inch wide cabinet. You must measure the internal width of your cabinet. If it’s 28.5 inches, you have room. If your “30-inch” cabinet is made of thick material and only 27.5 inches wide inside, this unit will not fit.
  • Depth: The unit’s depth is 11.46 inches. Standard upper cabinets are 12 inches deep. This should fit, but you must check for any internal bracing or thick back panels that would interfere. If your cabinet is only 11 inches deep, you cannot use this hood.
  • Height: The unit’s body is 10.24 inches tall. This is the space it will occupy inside the cabinet, effectively removing that shelf.

This single step—measuring your internal cabinet dimensions against the product’s actual dimensions (not its “class” size)—is the most critical part of the entire project.

2. The Path: Ducted or Ductless?

This decision dictates the rest of your installation. The manual snippet for this Hermitlux model clearly shows two separate installation methods.

  • Ducted (Venting Outside): This is the preferred method for performance. Your planning task is to find the path for the duct. Will you go straight up through the cabinet, into the ceiling, and out the roof? Or will you go behind the unit, through the drywall, and out the exterior wall? This determines where you cut your next hole.
  • Ductless (Recirculating): This is the easier install, as it requires no new holes in your home’s structure. The air will be filtered and vented back into the kitchen through grilles on the hood or cabinet. Your planning task here is simpler: ensure you have access to install the included charcoal filters and that the vent openings are not blocked.

A diagram showing the two ventilation options, ducted and recirculation.

3. The Duct Run: Charting the Course (For Ducted)

If you choose “ducted,” your work has just begun. You can’t just aim the duct up and hope for the best. You must get a stud finder and a flashlight.

  • Check the Ceiling/Wall: Look in the attic or basement. Is there a ceiling joist or wall stud directly where your duct needs to go? If so, you cannot cut it. You will need to use 45-degree elbows to jog the duct around the structural member.
  • Map the Bends: Every bend (elbow) you add reduces airflow. A straight run is best. A run with two 90-degree bends is common. A run with four bends may not work at all. (This is a separate performance issue, as discussed in our other article on static pressure).
  • Check the Cap: Where the duct exits your home, you will need an exterior vent cap. Plan for this installation as well.

4. The Power: Locating the Outlet

A built-in hood needs an electrical source, typically a 120V outlet. Where is yours? Most codes require the outlet to be near the appliance, not behind it where it’s inaccessible. This often means placing an outlet inside the upper cabinet, in an adjacent cabinet, or recessed in the wall. If you don’t have an outlet within reach of the 46-inch power cord, you will need to hire an electrician before you can finish the installation.

A successful built-in hood project is 90% planning and 10% execution. By using the actual dimensions of a unit like the Hermitlux TB1370G-AC-I1 to plan your cuts, path, and power, you can ensure your installation day is a success, not a “whole Saturday” marathon of unexpected problems.